We made fifty miles today after uncoiling our way out of Baby Bear Cove over a shallow bar on a falling tide. Then we powered our way through a current that was less contrary that the tide tables had us believe.
We have a meter that shows the boat's speed through the water as measured with a small paddle wheel under the hull. Since the water itself is moving, the actual Speed over Ground (SOG) is measured with GPS. The difference tells the the speed of the current.
Even with the tide table predictions of current, it is usually difficult to predict what the current, or the SOG, will be. This is especially true when the flow in the channel is turbulent. Channels with smooth contour lines are said to be laminar (not turbulent). The thing that makes some places so treacherous is not just the velocity of the flow, but the topography of the bottom. A lot of topological irregularity creates turbulence.
It was interesting to watch our boat knots and SOG as we headed up Peril Straight this morning. Because the center of the channel generally has a higher rate of flow, we favored a line closer to the shore. The shoreline itself was fairly irregular and the topography of the bottom was also uneven (as all channels are to some degree). Shortly after exiting our cove and heading up into the current, we found ourselves flying along at 7.5 kts SOG with 6.0 kts speed through the water. That suggests that the current was going with us at 1.5 kts. A minute later our SOG was 5.0 kts. The speed through the water remained fairly constant, but the SOG drifted around considerably, suggesting rather turbulent conditions. All in all, we didn't see the 1.5-2.0 kts against us that was predicted by the tide tables, probably because we weren't in the center of the channel. As the current slackened over time and the channel widened, we did see our SOG slowly come up to parity with the speed through the water around the time we expected to see slack water.
This is all part of the learning most of us hope to achieve: by paying close attention the particulars of the channel we're in: width, depth, bottom and shoreline contours, we can take note of the resulting turbulence in terms of its effect on our boat speed. And we can learn from it. Whether fishing around Johnstone Straight, or river rafting the Skykomish, there are people who have a lot of experience at this kind of thing and they're really good at it. They're better than I'll ever be, but it's fun to give it the attention it deserves. And being more current aware makes for safer passages.
July 9, 2016
Day 54 - Current Events; Rod
We decide to make an early break out of Kimshan Cove this morning and give ourselves as much depth as possible. High tide was at 3am, but while there was probably enough light at that hour (does it ever get dark around here?) a 3am start sounded a little extreme; we settled on 5am. At 4am though, Kay shouted something, so I assumed she was eager to get going and I got dressed. It turns out she was talking in her sleep. Still 4am was a great time to get underway and we appreciated the extra feet under the keel as we wound our way through kelp fields and submerged rocks in the circuitous Piehle Passage.
The problem with such an early start was that we arrived at Sergius Narrows four hours before slack, so we had to anchor and wait. We napped and cooked lunch on the BBQ. Our final destination for the evening was Baby Bear Cove, just a few miles beyond the narrows - another stunning pocket cove with a shallow entry.
It's been a tide table intensive couple of days. Tomorrow, for example, we'll want to leave early to give us enough depth to get out of the cove and late enough that the current out in the channel won't be too fast. Getting that trade-off right involves a lot of back of the envelope figuring. Most of the tide and current stations are secondary, meaning we have to look up the tide height or current for some other primary station and then adjust the timing and amplitude for our location of interest. It takes a certain amount of exploration just to figure out what is available and applicable, but it's straight forward once you get the hang of it.
Usually it's enough to know when high or low tides will be or when slack current will be. Occasionally it's a bit more complicated. Since the tide gets lower tomorrow morning as time passes, I calculated the heights at 7:00, 8:00 and 9:00am. Then I calculated the currents in the channel at the same times. I've decided we can live with the 1.5 knot current in the channel at 7am more comfortably than we can the minus tide out of the cove at 9am, so we'll go at 7am.
The next few days into Petersburg should present us with more typical hazards than we've seen in this leg so far. It will be nice to relax a little.
The problem with such an early start was that we arrived at Sergius Narrows four hours before slack, so we had to anchor and wait. We napped and cooked lunch on the BBQ. Our final destination for the evening was Baby Bear Cove, just a few miles beyond the narrows - another stunning pocket cove with a shallow entry.
It's been a tide table intensive couple of days. Tomorrow, for example, we'll want to leave early to give us enough depth to get out of the cove and late enough that the current out in the channel won't be too fast. Getting that trade-off right involves a lot of back of the envelope figuring. Most of the tide and current stations are secondary, meaning we have to look up the tide height or current for some other primary station and then adjust the timing and amplitude for our location of interest. It takes a certain amount of exploration just to figure out what is available and applicable, but it's straight forward once you get the hang of it.
Usually it's enough to know when high or low tides will be or when slack current will be. Occasionally it's a bit more complicated. Since the tide gets lower tomorrow morning as time passes, I calculated the heights at 7:00, 8:00 and 9:00am. Then I calculated the currents in the channel at the same times. I've decided we can live with the 1.5 knot current in the channel at 7am more comfortably than we can the minus tide out of the cove at 9am, so we'll go at 7am.
The next few days into Petersburg should present us with more typical hazards than we've seen in this leg so far. It will be nice to relax a little.
Day 53 - USCG on Duty; Rod
We've been running south through the swell off the west side of Chicagof Island today and will again tomorrow. Entering the Gulf of Alaska from Lisianski Straight is a bit of a trial by fire; even in mild conditions, the "protected" route turns left out of the straight and is immediately surrounded by rocks with waves breaking over them. Cool! We focused on the chart plotter and steered the route, appreciating the value of a good navigator, whether electronic or human.
Long ago I learned the three fundamental rules of boating that one should never forget: 1) always know where you are, 2) when in doubt stop the boat, and 3) umm… ok, I don't remember the third, but those two will usually do. It probably had something to do with being prepared.
It wasn't long ago that coastal location awareness was primarily determined by the bearings of sighted objects: when that point is to the northeast, I can start my turn; when my bearing to the lighthouse is 270, I'll add 30 to my course; and so on. It wasn't too difficult with ample preparation and it worked well. It still does. I can remember spending hours the night before getting it all sorted in my head, taking notes, annotating charts. There is not much in life that you can't nail by doing your homework.
Now I spend that time entering way-points on the chart plotter. It's quicker and a lot less demanding en route. Either way, it pays to be thorough; a mistake can be serious. It's also valuable to be able to use either method.
Today everything went smoothly. We followed a circuitous procession of way points between rocks and watched the waves crashing all around us. It was violent, chaotic, and serenely beautiful. The sun was out, the sky was blue, the breeze was light and it felt awesome to be out there. The swell was big and somewhat confused, so the boat rolled around loosely in a comfortable kind of way. Quijote seemed to be enjoying the feel of the sea and the ocean breeze as much as her crew.
Shortly before rounding the point into the bay where we would find flatter water for anchoring in Kimshan Cove, a Coast Guard cutter slid in a half hour ahead of us. They were apparently on patrol and using the bay to hang out in calmer waters. It is a comfort to know they're out there, especially in these places where no one else is.
Long ago I learned the three fundamental rules of boating that one should never forget: 1) always know where you are, 2) when in doubt stop the boat, and 3) umm… ok, I don't remember the third, but those two will usually do. It probably had something to do with being prepared.
It wasn't long ago that coastal location awareness was primarily determined by the bearings of sighted objects: when that point is to the northeast, I can start my turn; when my bearing to the lighthouse is 270, I'll add 30 to my course; and so on. It wasn't too difficult with ample preparation and it worked well. It still does. I can remember spending hours the night before getting it all sorted in my head, taking notes, annotating charts. There is not much in life that you can't nail by doing your homework.
Now I spend that time entering way-points on the chart plotter. It's quicker and a lot less demanding en route. Either way, it pays to be thorough; a mistake can be serious. It's also valuable to be able to use either method.
Today everything went smoothly. We followed a circuitous procession of way points between rocks and watched the waves crashing all around us. It was violent, chaotic, and serenely beautiful. The sun was out, the sky was blue, the breeze was light and it felt awesome to be out there. The swell was big and somewhat confused, so the boat rolled around loosely in a comfortable kind of way. Quijote seemed to be enjoying the feel of the sea and the ocean breeze as much as her crew.
Shortly before rounding the point into the bay where we would find flatter water for anchoring in Kimshan Cove, a Coast Guard cutter slid in a half hour ahead of us. They were apparently on patrol and using the bay to hang out in calmer waters. It is a comfort to know they're out there, especially in these places where no one else is.
Day 52 - Chili con Quijote; Rod
With Glacier Bay behind us, we called Bartlett Cove on the radio and let them know we were departing, then turned west out Icy Straight toward the Gulf of Alaska. Had the weather forecast been less favorable, we would have been forced inland toward Chatham Straight. We are thrilled to be able to head out to what Douglas calls the "exquisite" Outside Passage. With ten knots wind or less forecast through the week, we'll head down the outside of Chichagof Island, hopping from cove to cove toward Sitka. Twenty miles before we actually get to Sitka, we'll dodge inland and head toward Petersburg, where we'll take a break from the cruising life for a couple of weeks. I'll fly home to do some backpacking and Kay will meet with her son Chris and take a ferry out to Sitka. Vi will fly home and Tom, Tina and Sue will join us for the next leg at the end of July.
Tonight we're in Mite Cove in Lisianski Inlet (as with most places around here, it's named for some Russian dude). We arrived early and decided to get cooking. There was hamburger to use up before it went bad, so I fried it up with chopped onion and bell pepper, then added the result to a large pot with cans of kidney beans, black beans, pinto beans, diced tomatoes, and chili powder: Mom's chili recipe! I grew up on this stuff (and revised it a little). Thanks Mom!
Chili con Quijote
1 lb ground beef
1 yellow onion, chopped
1 green pepper, chopped
1 large (29 oz) can of kidney beans
1 small (15 oz) can of black beans
1 small (15 oz) can of pinto beans
1 large (29 oz) can of diced tomatoes
1 can of corn
1 jalepeño pepper if you like it hot
salt, pepper, and chili powder to taste
Fry the hamburger until cooked and crumbled. Mop the liquid out with a wad of paper towel and discard. Add the onion and green pepper and continue cooking until soft. Transfer to a large pot and add the remaining ingredients (or start with a large electric frying pan). Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer for an hour or more stirring occasionally to keep it from burning on the bottom. When it's thick and bubbly (the thicker the better, but don't let it burn!) , turn off the heat and stir in a tablespoon of sugar. For best results, let the flavors meld for an hour or a day. Serve with cornbread, tortilla chips, cheddar cheese, avocados, sour cream, or whatever floats your boat.
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